Text by Marta Sobczyszyn & Stefanie Ramb
Images by Hans-Martin Kudlinski
With our FOCUS bikes, we went on a trip which showed that crazy spontaneous ideas can quickly turn into a cinnamon bun-heavy bike adventure. Two women with their bikes, the daily dose of great food, a lot of Scandinavian westerly wind and 400 km through the south of Sweden make an absolutely fabulous two-wheel adventure.
Marta
Hej! We are Marta and Steffi, both living in Munich and have been passionate about outdoor and mountain sports for a long time. We met in 2017 through the Munich Mountain Girls community, an online and offline community of 15,000 women from all over the German-speaking world who - like us - are united by this passion. They all love the mountains and the things you can experience outdoors. Since 2018, we have been part of the team behind MMG and take care of content, collaborations, social gatherings and projects like the Mountain Girls book (Prestel).
We share many hobbies and passions like handicrafts, knitting, writing and pretzels. Plus small adventures and good food. We have already experienced a few (outdoor) adventures together, and the most recent one took us to the far north.
Steffi
"I have more in common with Sweden than just cinnamon buns, IKEA or Fjällräven. While still at university, I spent some time in Stockholm and fell head over heels in love with the country and the language. The cooperation between Munich Mountain Girls and FOCUS made me want to get to know my favourite second home country from a different perspective. A three-week bikepacking tour through southern Sweden was on my 2022 agenda. On an evening filled with crafting and knitting with Marta, I told her about it and, without being asked, I immediately had a travel companion for the first six days." - Steffi.
Since I jumped up relatively late during the bike boom of the last few years - basically by the beginning of spring 2022, I jumped on "long bike rides" for the first time. At first, I did a three-day test ride, aka crossing the Alps over the Brenner Pass to Bolzano. If that works, I can cycle in Sweden for three weeks.
Hej! We are Marta and Steffi, both living in Munich and have been passionate about outdoor and mountain sports for a long time. We met in 2017 through the Munich Mountain Girls community, an online and offline community of 15,000 women from all over the German-speaking world who - like us - are united by this passion. They all love the mountains and the things you can experience outdoors. Since 2018, we have been part of the team behind MMG and take care of content, collaborations, social gatherings and projects like the Mountain Girls book (Prestel).
We share many hobbies and passions like handicrafts, knitting, writing and pretzels. Plus small adventures and good food. We have already experienced a few (outdoor) adventures together, and the most recent one took us to the far north.
"I have more in common with Sweden than just cinnamon buns, IKEA or Fjällräven. While still at university, I spent some time in Stockholm and fell head over heels in love with the country and the language. The cooperation between Munich Mountain Girls and FOCUS made me want to get to know my favourite second home country from a different perspective. A three-week bikepacking tour through southern Sweden was on my 2022 agenda. On an evening filled with crafting and knitting with Marta, I told her about it and, without being asked, I immediately had a travel companion for the first six days." - Steffi.
Since I jumped up relatively late during the bike boom of the last few years - basically by the beginning of spring 2022, I jumped on "long bike rides" for the first time. At first, I did a three-day test ride, aka crossing the Alps over the Brenner Pass to Bolzano. If that works, I can cycle in Sweden for three weeks.
Joint preparation
At first, Steffi's idea for the summer was to ride the bike, have a coffee here and there, and camp where she liked it. After I jumped in, our tour required at least a little planning:
There will be no camping together, and after the first week, I will return to Germany. So, without further ado, we decided to ride together along the Swedish west coast between Trelleborg and Gothenburg, also known in the Scandinavian bike scene as the Kattegat route.
And then it was pretty simple: planning the route with the help of Komoot, dividing it into daily stages, finding apartments or hostels at the end of the stage, researching coffee spots and adapting the route accordingly with cinnamon bun spots - done. If you decide to travel by bike and train, there is one thing you have to keep in mind: Bicycle parking spaces on German trains are booked up very quickly this summer - so make sure you book in good time!
We were lucky and got hold of a connection in which both we and our bikes could travel together. Munich-Rostock with the ICE, Rostock-Trelleborg with the ferry, which is surprisingly easy to book, unlike the train. A person with a bicycle is a person without a car and thus actually always comes along.
We got a little inspiration and helpful tips here:
Joint preparation
At first, Steffi's idea for the summer was to ride the bike, have a coffee here and there, and camp where she liked it. After I jumped in, our tour required at least a little planning:
There will be no camping together, and after the first week, I will return to Germany. So, without further ado, we decided to ride together along the Swedish west coast between Trelleborg and Gothenburg, also known in the Scandinavian bike scene as the Kattegat route.
And then it was pretty simple: planning the route with the help of Komoot, dividing it into daily stages, finding apartments or hostels at the end of the stage, researching coffee spots and adapting the route accordingly with cinnamon bun spots - done.
If you decide to travel by bike and train, there is one thing you have to keep in mind: Bicycle parking spaces on German trains are booked up very quickly this summer - so make sure you book in good time!
We were lucky and got hold of a connection in which both we and our bikes could travel together. Munich-Rostock with the ICE, Rostock-Trelleborg with the ferry, which is surprisingly easy to book, unlike the train. A person with a bicycle is a person without a car and thus actually always comes along.
We got a little inspiration and helpful tips here:
How do we get all this into the bags?
What we had managed to suppress relatively well until shortly before departure was the packing list. Steffi had researched for her "extended" idea what of the stuff she normally needs for camping could be packed onto her ATLAS, how and where - and thanks to the many possibilities of the ATLAS to attach bikepacking bags at various points - she was able to sit back and relax relatively quickly.
My MARES is a cyclocross bike, unlike Steffi's ATLAS, with no extra attachment points. But that wasn't a problem because the confidence was there, and the naivety was incredible that I could get all my belongings for the trip into the three ORTLIEB bags.
Nevertheless, this massive pile of stuff on the bed or floor in the flats two days before departure never seemed to fit into these tiny bags.
How do we get all this into the bags?
What we had managed to suppress relatively well until shortly before departure was the packing list. Steffi had researched for her "extended" idea what of the stuff she normally needs for camping could be packed onto her ATLAS, how and where - and thanks to the many possibilities of the ATLAS to attach bikepacking bags at various points - she was able to sit back and relax relatively quickly.
My MARES is a cyclocross bike, unlike Steffi's ATLAS, with no extra attachment points. But that wasn't a problem because the confidence was there, and the naivety was incredible that I could get all my belongings for the trip into the three ORTLIEB bags.
Nevertheless, this massive pile of stuff on the bed or floor in the flats two days before departure never seemed to fit into these tiny bags.
Here we go!
We meet at Munich's central station with big smiles and immense excitement. On the train that takes us north, several bulging e-bikes block the access to our booked bike seats. A little pushing and jerking later, the bikes are stuck in their holders, and we spread out in the entire compartment. It takes only a few minutes to change to an Intercity train to Rostock in Berlin. The opposite platform - so we quickly get off one train and onto the next. It goes smoother than expected. It's Sunday, and Rostock is deserted. But there are fries and a hotel behind which we hide the bikes in the bushes, as we are not allowed to take our +1 to our room. It would be a shame if they were gone before we even got to Sweden.
We meet at Munich's central station with big smiles and immense excitement. On the train that takes us north, several bulging e-bikes block the access to our booked bike seats.
A little pushing and jerking later, the bikes are stuck in their holders, and we spread out in the entire compartment. It takes only a few minutes to change to an Intercity train to Rostock in Berlin.
The opposite platform - so we quickly get off one train and onto the next. It goes smoother than expected. It's Sunday, and Rostock is deserted.
But there are fries and a hotel behind which we hide the bikes in the bushes, as we are not allowed to take our +1 to our room. It would be a shame if they were gone before we even got to Sweden.
Rostock - Trelleborg + Trelleborg - Landskrona
The ferry is supposed to leave at 8 am, so we leave the hotel early enough to watch the queue of cars loading the ferry. Cycling onto the ship is a fun feeling, and our bikes should be parked in the furthest corner between random metal stuff. Ooookaay! Six hours crossing that feels like an entire day. We drive off the ferry, and although we actually wanted to "pull through", we first turn directly into a café in Trelleborg. First cinnamon roll - hook it.
Strengthening is good because, between the wheat fields on the first few kilometres to the north, it feels like you've never sat on a bike. Everything hurts, the new cleats don't quite fit yet, the wind is annoying, and we must get comfortable on the bike first. After a lunch break in Malmö, things are much better. We arrive in Landskrona after 9 pm - the pizzeria and grocery stores are closed too. No dinner for us, just sleeping.
Rostock - Trelleborg + Trelleborg - Landskrona
The ferry is supposed to leave at 8 am, so we leave the hotel early enough to watch the queue of cars loading the ferry. Cycling onto the ship is a fun feeling, and our bikes should be parked in the furthest corner between random metal stuff. Ooookaay! Six hours crossing that feels like an entire day. We drive off the ferry, and although we actually wanted to "pull through", we first turn directly into a café in Trelleborg. First cinnamon roll - hook it.
Strengthening is good because, between the wheat fields on the first few kilometres to the north, it feels like you've never sat on a bike. Everything hurts, the new cleats don't quite fit yet, the wind is annoying, and we must get comfortable on the bike first. After a lunch break in Malmö, things are much better. We arrive in Landskrona after 9 pm - the pizzeria and grocery stores are closed too. No dinner for us, just sleeping.
Landskrona-Båstad
We dash the 20 km to Helsingborg. On our way, we pass the imposing Öresund Bridge from afar. In Helsingborg, we turn right into the street with the perfect café. "Should we grab lunch here?" "Yes, we will!".
Everything is running smoother today, the wind is okayish, and the bike feeling is better. Another cinnamon roll stop, and suddenly we are at our accommodation.
One thing we learned so far: the day needs structure. Whether it's café stops, lunch breaks or great views - cycling-stop-eating-cycling-eating-shopping-eating-sleeping-repeat. That's pretty much what the next days will look like. And we love it.
DAY 2 // Landskrona-Båstad
We dash the 20 km to Helsingborg. On our way, we pass the imposing Öresund Bridge from afar. In Helsingborg, we turn right into the street with the perfect café. "Should we grab lunch here?" "Yes, we will!".
Everything is running smoother today, the wind is okayish, and the bike feeling is better. Another cinnamon roll stop, and suddenly we are at our accommodation.
One thing we learned so far: the day needs structure. Whether it's café stops, lunch breaks or great views - cycling-stop-eating-cycling-eating-shopping-eating-sleeping-repeat. That's pretty much what the next days will look like. And we love it.
Båstad - Åled
After the first 170 km of our trip, we have the feeling of having moved in on our bikes. Everything is slowly finding its place. You develop your first small routine, such as eating and charging your mobile phone while riding the bike. Each of us has our own routines: Steffi has direct access to the accessory bag, which she has attached to the front of the handlebar, and from there, she fishes gummy bears and crispbread directly into her mouth.
I use my frame bag for everything I need while riding. EVERYTHING FITS IN! Unbelievable: tools, spare tubes (thank God we didn't need them), gummy bears, bars, carrots (the best snack because they don't break that quickly), power bank, charging cable. But beware of cars and co.!
DAY 3 // Båstad - Åled
After the first 170 km of our trip, we have the feeling of having moved in on our bikes. Everything is slowly finding its place. You develop your first small routine, such as eating and charging your mobile phone while riding the bike. Each of us has our own routines: Steffi has direct access to the accessory bag, which she has attached to the front of the handlebar, and from there, she fishes gummy bears and crispbread directly into her mouth.
I use my frame bag for everything I need while riding. EVERYTHING FITS IN! Unbelievable: tools, spare tubes (thank God we didn't need them), gummy bears, bars, carrots (the best snack because they don't break that quickly), power bank, charging cable. But beware of cars and co.!
Åled - Gamla Koepstad
As we wake up, it starts to rain. But the weather forecast shows us mainly good weather and some wind. We jet off – directly into the next rain shower. As it slowly gets too wet in the bushes, we decide to roll to a café or plough through the puddles. As soon as we got there, the cafe lady said it was closed. In the meantime, the sky has opened up again anyway, so we keep going! And after the rain comes the wind. As we continue to follow the coast to the north - apart from a few detours, we are on the Kattegatleden, one of Sweden's super-developed and signposted cycle routes.
The west wind shows us who's the boss here. We definitely aren't that day. We can't talk. Everything is flapping and rattling. We hide at a bus stop for a little break. The last twenty kilometres are particularly a crazy fight against the blowing wind.
Our tip for nasty winds: bite through and keep taking breaks in sheltered places. And eat! Fighting against the wind requires energy; sometimes, listening to your favourite motivational playlist helps.
Day 4 // Åled - Gamla Koepstad
As we wake up, it starts to rain. But the weather forecast shows us mainly good weather and some wind. We jet off – directly into the next rain shower. As it slowly gets too wet in the bushes, we decide to roll to a café or plough through the puddles. As soon as we got there, the cafe lady said it was closed. In the meantime, the sky has opened up again anyway, so we keep going! And after the rain comes the wind. As we continue to follow the coast to the north - apart from a few detours, we are on the Kattegatleden, one of Sweden's super-developed and signposted cycle routes. The west wind shows us who's the boss here. We definitely aren't that day.
We can't talk. Everything is flapping and rattling. We hide at a bus stop for a little break. The last twenty kilometres are particularly a crazy fight against the blowing wind. Our tip for nasty winds: bite through and keep taking breaks in sheltered places. And eat! Fighting against the wind requires energy; sometimes, listening to your favourite motivational playlist helps.
Gamla Koepstad - Gothenburg
It's unbelievable how quickly the last stage came. It is over 90 km long, but the wind has died a bit. This coastal path is gorgeous. For the daily midday coffee stop, we drive to a nursery café again - a "speciality" in Sweden. There are snacks, pastries and drinks in gardens and between greenhouses - always fresh and tasty.
We are approaching Gothenburg, driving first through an industrial area, past Tivoli, the stadium and
finally towards the port. We are there!
How does that feel now, after almost 400 km, to have arrived? Not so final because this is only the first stage of a long bikepacking history. Steffi and I agree: We are completely enchanted by this way of moving - not too slow, but not too fast- so that you can perceive your surroundings at any time. And it certainly wasn't the last time travelling by bike.
Day 5 // Gamla Koepstad - Gothenburg
It's unbelievable how quickly the last stage came. It is over 90 km long, but the wind has died a bit. This coastal path is gorgeous. For the daily midday coffee stop, we drive to a nursery café again - a "speciality" in Sweden.
There are snacks, pastries and drinks in gardens and between greenhouses - always fresh and tasty. We are approaching Gothenburg, driving first through an industrial area, past Tivoli, the stadium and finally towards the port. We are there!
How does that feel now, after almost 400 km, to have arrived? Not so final because this is only the first stage of a long bikepacking history. Steffi and I agree: We are completely enchanted by this way of moving - not too slow, but not too fast- so that you can perceive your surroundings at any time. And it certainly wasn't the last time travelling by bike.
Gothenburg is the second largest city in Sweden after Stockholm. Particularly suitable for cycling, sitting in a café, eating waffles and letting yourself drift. Gothenburg is now internationally known for its good food.
We stroll through the city, enjoying the day without our bikes. This place is so wonderful. There is good food everywhere, beautiful people and many great things on every street corner. Tomorrow our paths will separate again. I'm going back to Germany. Steffi continued to stroll through southern Sweden on her bike.
Gothenburg is the second largest city in Sweden after Stockholm. Particularly suitable for cycling, sitting in a café, eating waffles and letting yourself drift.
Gothenburg is now internationally known for its good food.
We stroll through the city, enjoying the day without our bikes. This place is so wonderful.
There is good food everywhere, beautiful people and many great things on every street corner.
Tomorrow our paths will separate again. I'm going back to Germany. Steffi continued to stroll through southern Sweden on her bike.
Day 7 // Gothenburg - Hamburg
Day of departure: Generally, it has to be said that travelling by train and bike works well, and you just have to have time and patience. So I use the time to reflect on the experiences of our joint Gravel adventure.
Day 7 // Gothenburg - Hamburg
Day of departure: Generally, it has to be said that travelling by train and bike works well, and you just have to have time and patience. So I use the time to reflect on the experiences of our joint Gravel adventure.
Du har varit mycket snälla mot oss och vi ser fram emot att få träffa dig igen!
(You have been very good to us, and we look forward to seeing you again!)